Afghanistan: Under fire with the Royal Marines

I have been to Afghanistan six times. It is an endlessly fascinating and beautiful country. In this post I want to share a taste of how it feels to be shot at while on patrol with the British military.

Delta Company on Patrol in Helmand

Delta Company on Patrol in Helmand

“RPG” shouted one of the Marines next to me. I dived for cover and pressed record on my TV Camera. There was a loud boom and the earth shook as the small missile exploded close behind. The Royal Marines immediately returned fire. It was just after dawn on Christmas day, 2007. I’d always wandered how it felt to be shot at, to hear the crack of bullets breaking the sound barrier above my head and to feel the adrenaline flood through my body. Now it was happening it felt strangely surreal, like I was watching a film.

Time for a quick photo while on patrol

Time for a quick photo while on patrol

I was embedded with Delta Company, 40 Commando Royal Marines and when the Taliban struck we were advancing in single file across a broad muddy field. Next to me was a young Officer who was also experiencing his first taste of battle. As the rounds cracked above us he calmly gave his men instructions and briefed me on what was happening.”Merry Christmas” He said with a smile as another bullet whizzed close-by. Jonesy, a black guy from Wales, was on the other side of me. He raised his head over the top of the drainage ditch we’d dived into and let rip with his Minimi machine-gun, the vicious sound echoing loudly.

“Incoming” screamed a Marine as another RPG round exploded nearby. For a moment I’d forgotten why I was there, too busy tasting the Afghan dirt to film. I wasn’t scared, just confused and showing my inexperience. Eventually one of the Bootnecks asked wether I planned to film any of the action, I laughed and began looking for shots. The battle soon steadied and the frantic back and forth of small arms fire slowly faded. After some time it appeared the Taliban had withdrawn, no more fire came our way and slowly we began to move back across the open ground and into the cover of an empty compound nearby.

A 50. calibre ready for anything at the Forward Operating Base

A 50. calibre ready for anything at the Forward Operating Base

That night one of the Marines approached me at the Forward operating base and told me that he thought I’d been brave to go on patrol without a weapon. I shook my head, slightly embarrassed. It had been a brief introduction to war, I felt like a tourist and knew that in a few days I would be home, while he and his mates would be back out on the front lines putting themselves into harms way once again – now that is bravery.

Below is a tribute film that I put together with footage that I shot during my embed with 40 Commando

Also if you are interested in Afghanistan and want to learn more about one of the worlds most fascinating countries then I highly recommend the following list of books (If you click on the links below it will take you to the relevant amazon page and if you buy it I’ll earn about five percent of the sale to help with the upkeep of this site – at no extra cost to you)

Timbuktu: A trip to the end of the earth

timbuktu's famous Sankore mosque at sunset

timbuktu’s famous Sankore mosque at sunset

 

The ancient city of Timbuktu sits close to the Niger river, just south of the vast Sahara desert. It is a maze of dusty, litter strewn roads lined with original and distinctive architecture. I was there in November 2009 alongside BBC Africa Correspondent Andrew Harding and Producer Tara Neil. At that time it was crowded with European tourists keen to see the cities libraries and Mosques, the market was thriving and the Malian government was in total control.

Now the city is controlled by an uneasy federation of Toureg separatists and Al-Qaeda inspired islamist groups who are keen to impose sharia law – A shocking turn of events initiated by a military coup in Mali that has spectacularly failed in its original aim of improving the army and helping it to win the war against the Toureg.

While we were there we made four films for the BBC Ten o’clock News. Firstly we looked at the growing threat of Al Qaeda in the region, a threat that has since proved itself to be very real:

The Second of our films examined how local solutions are helping to reverse the drought that has been affecting the region for many years:

Thirdly we visited some of the cities libraries, the repositories of some of Africa’s most important documents and proof of a thriving civilisation from a time well before the Europeans arrived to carve up the continent.

And finally we explored the dying salt trade, and looked at how technology is changing an ancient industry.

It was a fascinating trip, and an amazing chance to shine a light on a little known corner of the world. I am now watching developments in Mali closely and I hope one day to be able to return.

South Sudan: travelling in the worlds newest country.

South Sudan is one of my favourite places in Africa. I have visited many times in the course of my work and I have to come to love the place and its people. When caparkinson.com was hacked I lost a lot of posts about my travels in the country and this article is my attempt to rectify that. I have included a combination of different written pieces and films that I have made there between 2008 and 2011.

Early morning at a cattle camp in South Sudan

Early morning at a cattle camp in South Sudan

The Hungriest place on earth: Day trip to Akobo, April 2010.

The United Nations base was a maze of blue roofed Porta-cabins protected by lightly armed Bengali soldiers, distinctive in their luminous green uniforms. UN bases across the world are identical, clean and well organized with a fleet of white painted four by fours standing by and ready to roll. We were there by invitation, to travel with Lise Grande, the impressive and tough UN Resident Humanitarian Co-ordinator. Her and her team wanted to show us the hungriest place on earth.

We boarded the ancient and creaking Russian Helicopter, there were about thirty of us including aid workers from Save the Children and a small number of other journalists. It was a bone shaking two hour journey, out of Juba along the Nile river before baring east, passing low across huge tracts of desolate scrub and dried up river beds.

Inside the UN Helicopter to Akobo

Inside the UN Helicopter to Akobo

I filmed through the Helicopters small round window, zooming in to our destination, Akobo. It was a ramshackle place of mud and straw houses that had been swelled by internally displaced people, desperate to avoid the inter-tribal fighting that had effected the surrounding areas. The helicopter landed gently on an empty piece of land outside the town. The Russian crew told us that they would not wait if we took longer than two hours.

It was midday and the sun was high and hot. It was the sort of heat that took your breath away and seemed to scrape at the inside of your lungs. My colleague Andrew Harding and I jumped into a waiting vehicle and were rushed off to the local hospital.

We steered along dusty, pot holed roads until the sound of crying children and the babble of a gathered crowd indicated that we had arrived. A long line of Mothers queued patiently before handing their babies over to be weighed and measured. In exchange they were given high energy biscuits. The most seriously malnourished children were inside the clinic. I focused on Rhett, a baby so fragile that he was being fed milk through a syringe. He still couldn’t keep it down. His body was tiny and his eyes were glazed over, without hope. I took the pictures that I needed and left.

With little time remaining we were rushed across town to meet families displaced by the local fighting. We found one group sheltering under a leafless tree by the river. The South Sudanese are generally tough people, the family we met were tall, and sported the tribal facial scars that are common in this part of the world. They had nothing, the drought had destroyed their crops and the fighting meant they could not return home.

The local Government Commissioner spoke with an American accent picked up while studying , we met him on our way back to the airstrip and he showed us the cause of many of the problems – guns, and lots of them. His men had confiscated hundreds of weapons from local fighters but he knew that the problem was not going away, “If they are hungry then somebody will look for a gun again to get a cow so that he survives. It’s a matter of survival.”

At three PM, as the shadows began to lengthen we made a run for the helicopter. We dashed across rugged, undulating ground and reached the Helicopter just as the pilot started the engines. Sweaty and exhausted I climbed back aboard. It had been a tough but fulfilling day and I hoped that in some small way my pictures would help to make life in Akobo more bearable.

If you want to see the film we made on that day then please follow this link

Voting for a new nation: January 2011, film for BBC News

Behind the scenes at the birth of a new nation:

To watch the film we made on the day of South Sudan’s independence then click here

or click here for the preview film we made on the day before independence.